I’ve been to Belgium three times in my life. Once for an air display, where I was to stay at Centre Parcs, after an air show, (Koksijide); see my Blog "The Case of the Belgian Glitter Ball". Once for conference on export controls, where I discovered the Manneken Piss, (in the City of Brussels, on a walkabout from my hotel); and finally, when I worked for Volvo as their Customs Manager, because that’s where their massive customs warehouse is, as I was privileged to experience the site where they complete the cars to Ro-Ro them across from Ghent to the UK.
But enough about me, now I am charged with explaining why Belgium was a leg decider in winning the Second World War?
Why - you may ask ?
Well my wife has got herself on a tour of the battlefields in Belgium and asked me about the Battle of the Bulge and as you know from my last blog, I enjoy a bit of history.
Now, really if you do go on such a tour it is essential to at least know what that was all about, right?
Belgium's serene Ardennes forests hold a profound and sombre history. For many, a visit to these beautiful landscapes might simply be a scenic drive, but for those who delve deeper, it's a journey into one of the most pivotal and brutal battles of World War II: the Battle of the Bulge. Imagine standing in a quiet, snow-dusted field, where seventy-nine years ago, the ground vibrated with the roar of tanks and the desperate cries of soldiers.
Without the context of the Battle of the Bulge, these fields are just fields. With it, they become hallowed ground, whispering tales of courage, sacrifice, and strategic genius.
What you shouldn’t do if you are going to this battlefield tour is watch the 1965 film of the “Battle of the Bulge” because the movie's plot centres on fictional characters like Lt. Col. Kiley (Henry Fonda) and Gen. Grey (Robert Ryan) on the American side, and Col. Hessler (Robert Shaw) on the German side. This was a creative decision by the filmmakers to create a more self-contained, dramatic story rather than a historically accurate documentary, so for this blog here is my version of events.
Fought from December 1944 to January 1945, the Battle of the Bulge was Hitler's last-ditch, desperate attempt to turn the tide of World War II on the Western Front. Taking advantage of dense fog and Allied overconfidence, German forces launched a massive surprise offensive through the Ardennes. Their goal: split the Allied armies, capture the strategic port of Antwerp, and force the Western Allies to negotiate a separate peace.
Initially, the German thrust created a massive "bulge" in the Allied lines, hence the battle's enduring name. Germany needed four factors to work in its favour: catching the Allies off-guard; poor weather that would neutralize air support for Allied troops, the dealing of early, devastating, demoralizing blows against the Allies; and capturing Allied fuel supplies intact. (Germany originally intended to attack on November 27, but had to delay its initial assault due to fuel shortages). On December 16, 1944, the German attack began: the Wehrmacht (the Third Reich’s unified armed forces) struck with 250,000 soldiers along an 85-mile stretch of Allied front, stretching from southern Belgium to Luxembourg.
However, fierce American resistance, particularly at Bastogne, and a remarkable logistical turnaround by General Patton's Third Army, eventually blunted the offensive. As the skies cleared, Allied air superiority decimated German supply lines and pushed them back. The cost was immense, with the U.S. suffering its highest casualties of any single battle in WWII.
The Ardennes today is peaceful, but during the battle, it was a brutal, unforgiving environment. Knowing about the deep snow, freezing temperatures, and dense forests will help you visualize the immense challenges faced by both sides. You'll see foxholes not just as indentations in the ground, but as temporary, life-saving shelters against relentless shelling.
The story of the besieged American forces in Bastogne, surrounded and cut off, yet refusing to surrender, is one of the most iconic of the war. When you visit the Mardasson Memorial or the foxholes around the town, you will need to understand the defining moment in the Battle of the Bulge which came when the Germans demanded the surrender of American troops who were outnumbered and surrounded in this town. United States General Anthony McAuliffe replied to the ultimatum with a now-legendary one-word response “Nuts!” His men withstood several German attacks until they could be relieved by the 4th Armored Division.
By knowing the famous "NUTS!" reply to the German surrender demand transforms these sites into powerful testaments to unwavering resolve.
The Battle of the Bulge was incredibly costly in terms of human lives. Visiting the American cemeteries, such as Henri-Chapelle, or the German cemetery at Recogne, becomes a profound act of remembrance when you understand the sheer scale of the fighting and the individual stories of those who fell. It brings a deeper appreciation for the peace we enjoy today.
Understanding Hitler's ambitious, yet ultimately flawed, strategy helps you appreciate the tactical decisions made by both Allied and Axis commanders.
When you go, one will see how crucial crossroads, bridges, and towns became battlegrounds, and how the tide turned due to a combination of Allied resilience, logistical prowess, and German overreach. Many of the towns and villages you'll pass through were directly impacted by the fighting. Local museums, monuments, and even the architecture itself often bear the scars and memories of the battle.
Understanding the history allows you to engage with these memorials not just as a tourist, but as someone who comprehends the sacrifices made to liberate these lands.
You may get time to just think about what went on those 70 odd years ago, if you do visit these sites.
They recommend that before you go on a Belgian battlefield tour, take some time to read up on the Battle of the Bulge. Watch documentaries, read personal accounts, or even just a detailed summary.
This preparation will transform your journey from a simple sightseeing trip into a deeply moving and educational pilgrimage. You won't just see the sites; you'll feel the echoes of history, honour the fallen, and gain a profound appreciation for the courage displayed in those cold, desperate winter months.
But remember a battlefield tour isn't just about looking at old tanks or memorials; it's about connecting with the past, understanding the human spirit under immense pressure, and ensuring that such sacrifices are never forgotten. And for the Ardennes, that means truly knowing the Battle of the Bulge.
“This is undoubtedly the greatest American battle of the war,” Winston Churchill said in the House of Commons following the Battle of the Bulge, “and will, I believe, be regarded as an ever-famous American victory.”
Whilst it is considered largely an American won campaign, 55,000 British troops, including the 6th Airborne Division, 51st (Highland) Division, and 53rd (Welsh) Division, were deployed to the Ardennes. Their main objective was to defend the northern flank and prevent the German advance from crossing the Meuse River.
The total number of British and Commonwealth casualties is estimated to be between 1,400 and 1,460, including around 200 killed. While significantly lower than the American losses (over 80,000 casualties), these were still heavy losses for the units involved, with some, like the 13th (Lancashire) Parachute Battalion, losing a third of their strength during the fighting.
With victory on January 25, 1945, the final triumph over Nazi Germany was in reach; Allied forces pressed their advantage and began the last push toward Berlin. On May 7, Germany agreed to an unconditional surrender. Less than five months after the Battle of the Bulge ended, the war in Europe was over.
POEM
War, what is it good for ?
Lives, lost in a battle, 70 years ago
Three famous generals, led their men in the snow
Of those days over Christmas of forty-four
Hitler’s final putsch, brought the Panzers to war
Young men, yanks, gee thanks some nineteen
Were sent into the fray as soldiers, in this fighting machine
Deep, deep snow, they couldn’t do much more
Experiencing Cold, cold winds, sailors call a “williwar”
Shells bursting, foxholes burning, trees fell down
Causalities, and death lay on frozen ground
(Chorus from the poem titled "The Battle of the Bulge" by Leroy Drumm):
I've felt the heat of battle
I've watched as good men died.
I nursed the sick and wounded,
There's times I sat and cried.
We held the line for many a day,
And finally the Germans started to pay.
We pushed them back a little more each day,
Until they ran from us and faded away.
I'll never forget the fighting, or the cold,
The story of the Bulge, that's what I've told.
Of brave young men who fought so well,
And saved our nation from a living hell.
Note on williwaw," which is a word for a sudden, violent gust of cold wind used by sailors mostly - well, I was one for 28 years 😄
Teresa - Enjoy the trip - you lucky thing !